how to.....buy a new car???

[madmanmike]

i currently own a 1992 chevy cavalier. it shakes really bad while in idle, has no air conditioning or heat, no radio, and the head lights are crooked among other things.it is my first car. i bought it for $500 from a friends dad.

i want to trade it in and get a brand new car. mytax return is $800 and i can add $500 onto that for the price. i have never owned a credit card but also have never done anything to screw up my credit.

here is my questions.
1)how much of a trade in for my car do you think i can get?
2)what kind of insurence rate can i expect and how much of a stugle will i have getting a car loan in this market?
3) what car company is the best in terms of: reliability, low maintenance, gas milage, and other catorgories.

i only want to spend $15000 at max for this new car. i am considering the chevy aveo and some 2003 trucks since they will be cheaper.

any help will be apricated and thank you in advance.

 

[nicocujo]

go to www.edmunds.com and it will show you prices for new and used vehicles.

 

[fgarvb1]

Unless they are wanting to sell bad you aren't going to get jack for your car.

On the other hand It can't be worth much anyway.

They are going to whole sell it if they take it on trade in.

It will probably be worth more on a trade in, because you can use it as part of your down payment, plus you will be rid of it.

 

[madmanmike]

.

im thinking about getting te chevy aveo. its only $10k but im unsure. has anyone had actual experience with the car?

 

[BirdsWife]

Make sure you get a couple of online quotes from places like carpricesecrets.com and pricequotes.com before you go to the dealership. It really is a great bargaining chip to have.

My local dealer matched the lower priced internet quote of a dealership about an hour away from me when we recently bought a new Huyndai Elantra. I think most dealers are hungry enough that they would rather make a little less profit than none at all.

Some of these sites can also prequalify you for a car loan so you know what you are up against. If your credit is good enough to get you a low interest bank or credit union loan, then sometimes you come out better taking the cash back from the dealer instead of their 0% financing.

 

[Meat Whistler]

Honestly, it depends on what you want in your new car and what you're willing to pay. I utilize a car as a means of transportation, nothing more, so I go with an economic vehicle.

As others stated, research, research, research! Make sure you research online the costs involved, including tax, tags, and license. These will add a hefty price to the price of the car, so be prepared.

Go into the dealership with a price in mind and settle for nothing less. Be prepared to pay that amount and if they aren't interested, LEAVE. A dealership somewhere will be prepared to pay the price you have in mind (provided you aren't being outrageous - we all want a brand new car for 5 grand ). I did this and ended up getting a $1,500 price cut.

As for the car you have - it will not be worth much at all for a trade-in. But, it's extra money that you'll receive, so it won't hurt; however, be prepared for a tiny return.

Good Luck!

 

[Lust Engine]

I know that because you need the cash NOW this scenario might not work immediately but think about donating your car to a charity & getting the tax break from it. As far as I know, you can get a better return than swapping it back in with the dealer.

The ideal way to get the most for your car is to sell it outright to an individual; dealers aren't going to give you squat. They might give you more if you buy from them but that'd be it. Also when you write up the bill of sale, make it lower than the actual amount and ask for the cash difference. Why should either of you guys pay the sales tax on the FULL amount?

Food for thought- Chevy Aveo is a new NEW car. All of the bugs might not have been worked out yet. A rule of thumb for me is never buy a car the first year it's out. Wait a year & see the reviews after a year's worth of wear & tear.

Trucks might be fun & cool but I have yet to see one with good gas mileage.

Consider the new Cavalier (decent mileage & more power than most other compacts) or better yet, check out the Honda Civic. Honda Civics are super reliable and retain value over a LONG period of time. They might be costlier at first but see what a comparable GM, Ford or Chrysler product is a few years from now- I can almost guarantee the Honda will be worth a LOT more.

 

[Vixandra]

In all honesty, I'd recommend going with a certified/warrentyed used car.
New cars loose a lot of thier value the moment you drive it off the lot. Picking up a lease return can be a lot cheaper, give you more to bargain the price down, and it may only be two years old, not that bad a thing, all in all.
Check for local sales and such things. That can make a big difference. Know what features you must have, you'd like and which ones you don't want/need at all before you go in.
I know Toyota.com has a pretty good site that gives great ideas on what it should cost to build the vehical you're wanting. And Toyotas are pretty sturdy, so my hubby says.
I'm a Mazda kid of girl, personally. Adored my B4000 truck and really like the RX7 we have here in Japan. Rotory engines rock!

 

[Reloader]

First of all, don't talk about payments.....yet.
Don't talk about trade in.
What you do have to do is talk about the price of the vehicle. Go on line and see what the vehicle is selling for. Barter with them about the price until it's where you want it, and THEN tell them you want to make payments. If you tell them something like "I don't care what the vehicle costs, I just want my monthly payment to be $XXX.XX, your'e fucked.
Get the price where you want it, then talk about trade in and payments.

 

[SexyChele]

Unless you need to ditch your present car immediately, take the time to research. Get an idea of the cost of the car you can afford (there are many payment calculators online as well, which can help you out), what you want on it, and what will fit your needs. Try doing some online quotes. Sometimes there are some great internet deals.

Your present car? You won't get anything for it. The dealer will never be able to re-sell it, so it's virtually worthless to them. They will take it and give you something for it, and combined with your refund check and the $500 you can add to it, you might have a fairly decent down payment. I agree that donating it to charity might give you more as a tax advantage, but that would be entirely up to you.

The additional fees can really drive up the price of a car, so ask the dealer to put those in writing for you. Remember, a dealer is only going to give you the base price of a car as a quote. That might seem like a great deal until everything else gets tacked on.

As far as reliable? I've owned one Chevy, one Saturn, and three Hondas. And I'm currently gearing up to buy another, well, Honda in the next month. I'll probably always stick with Honda. They are reliable, easy maintenence (as long as you observe the regular schedule religiously!), good on gas mileage, and have a great re-sell value. I've only seen two Chevy Aveos. As LE stated, they are new this year. Not a good investment. Besides not having all the kinks worked out, insurance companies typically charge more for cars during their first year on the market. This could impact the total cost of the car.

I've never owned a used car, but a co-worker of mine swears by pre-leased vehicles. Just another option. They are typically no more than 3 years old, and because they were leased, are usually maintained in great condition. Also, the mileage is typically lower. (Penalties for going over annual mileage keeps leased vehicles with low mileage) My co-worker always get the certified vehicles and he has had great luck and been very happy with what he's had. He mainly gets Toyotas and Hondas.

As far as trucks are concerned, you really would need to figure out what size truck you are looking at. For a short time, my mother owned a Toyota truck as a second vehicle until she retired. That puppy actually got some good gas mileage (5 speed manual) and she ended up getting almost what she paid for it as she hadn't even put 10,000 miles on it. Toyota trucks are known to hit their stride after 100,000, so they are long lasting.

I wouldn't worry about credit. When I bought my first car, I had no credit. I did need a co-signer, but these guys will find any way possible to sign you up. Remember, they work on commission so if they don't sell you are car, they don't make money. But I would stay away from financing through a dealership, if possible. Check out your bank or credit union first. You are probably not going to qualify for the 0% financing and 0% down (normally must have an excellent credit rating and you have none), so a financial institution might be able to provide you with a better interest rate - and they are low right now.

Good luck, and try to keep a cool head. Many people buy cars on impulse and end up making bad decisions.

 

[madmanmike]

.

im really thinking about the hondas after what ive been told and they had the best mileage of any of the car lots i went to. my qeustion what is the most popular mid or full size honda car. not so much popular but what is the best in your opinion.

 

[fire34]

Good advice...and I have a couple of things to add.

Decide what you want. Use Edmunds pricing guide as a reference, and get quotes over the phone or online from at least three dealers..

Get your own financing approved before you shop...that way you know how much car you can afford..

Do not let the dealer talk you into extra's...like extended warranties...etc...

Do not drive the car off the lot until the contract is signed and accepted by the bank or finance company....Dealers have been know to take your credit information, have you sign what you think is a binding contract, take your trade in...then come back and say the finance company or bank rejected the contract, and that they need more money or higher payments...don't fall for that.....leave the car there until you have the actual approved contract in hand...

Make sure you get a couple of online quotes from places like carpricesecrets.com and pricequotes.com before you go to the dealership. It really is a great bargaining chip to have.

My local dealer matched the lower priced internet quote of a dealership about an hour away from me when we recently bought a new Huyndai Elantra. I think most dealers are hungry enough that they would rather make a little less profit than none at all.

Some of these sites can also prequalify you for a car loan so you know what you are up against. If your credit is good enough to get you a low interest bank or credit union loan, then sometimes you come out better taking the cash back from the dealer instead of their 0% financing.

 

[SexyChele]

Re: .

im really thinking about the hondas after what ive been told and they had the best mileage of any of the car lots i went to. my qeustion what is the most popular mid or full size honda car. not so much popular but what is the best in your opinion.

Honda really doesn't have a full size car, unless you want to go into the SUV or mini-van category. They basically have two cars, the Accord and the Civic. It comes down to whether you want a coupe or sedan or, in the case of the Civic, a hatchback style.

The Honda Civic sedan is more spacious than one would think. And with all the amenities that come standard, you can even get a bit of a feel of luxuary. The Civic is the oldest of Honda cars and has a long standing reputation as being reliable, good on gas mileage, and a good resale value.

The Honda Accord is more roomy than the Civic and a little more costly. There are fancier offerings, naturally. I don't think the gas mileage is as good as the Civic as the Accord is slightly heavier. But the Accord does have a better resale value and is normally a much sought after car - regardless of the year.

I would go to www.hondacars.com and check out their full line. They can give you all the basics you want to know and help you compare comparable cars in each class.

Good luck!

 

[Lust Engine]

Re: .

im really thinking about the hondas after what ive been told and they had the best mileage of any of the car lots i went to. my qeustion what is the most popular mid or full size honda car. not so much popular but what is the best in your opinion.

Try the Honda Accord. It's their equivilent to the Ford Taurus- a smooth family-ish type of vehicle. It's not high end Lexus or Benz like but still a great value. I'd go to the dealership and try both the Civic & Accord.

I've even tried the Honda Civic Hybrid on a test drive once (with the AC blowing full tilt) and it wasn't that bad. It doesn't quite accelerate off the line as fast as I'd like but then most cars don't with the AC blowing full bore. It's one of the best if you're looking to save cash on gas- and with the current surge in gas prices, it might not be a bad idea. It doesn't look any gorpier because it's a hybrid vehicle either unlike the Prius & now defunct GM electric vehicle.

And for under $25,000- it'll pay off in the long run too. I believe the Civic Hybrid is now in its second or third year of production so hopefully most of the bugs have been worked out by now.

I think it's got to be one of the best deals out there now long AND short term.

 

[SexyChele]

Okay, LE, I gotta ask: What does "gorpier" mean? I take it not good?

And I agree, the Honda Civic hybrid is a great little car. (NOT the Hindsight!) Looks exactly like the "normal" Civic, so one does not have to compromise on style to get the fabulous benefits of a hybrid vehicle. Personally, I'm considering it, but I doubt even with gas prices as high as they are (I live in So Cal, so we are well over $2), I will be leaving my CR-V any time soon.

 

[Lust Engine]

Okay, LE, I gotta ask: What does "gorpier" mean? I take it not good?

Uh...gorpier= not good, is correct!

 

[DevilishTexan]

Before you do ANYTHING.....buy an Intellichoice guide. It will give you EVERYTHING, and I do mean EVERYTHING you want to know about buying any car. It's worth it!


I sold cars for 4 years. It's my book of choice.

 

[madmanmike]

hey texan

where cani get one of those books. and how much is the cost.

 

[madmanmike]

went for a test drive

test drove a 2000 acura today and the farthest down the dealer would go is 15500 so i came home and went to edmunds.com and looked up the value. the car shouldnt have been above 9k. what a gip. but need anymore advise about deeling with the dealers?

 

[millieteases]

Spouse sold cars, brother-in-law sells cars.

Much of the advice here is good. However, I like Fords. But that's a family thing - one relative with 30+ years there, two others with 20+. Never had a Ford that gave me any real trouble. Never rented a Chrysler product that didn't give me trouble. Others probably have different experiences.

If you don't have a lot of money, go for the certified, pre-owned or whatever program the company has for used cars. Cars coming off leases are usually pretty good, especially if they have some manufacturer's warranty left. Also, as was said before, you drive a new car off the lot and you just lost 20% or more of it's value. The used car doesn't take that immediate depreciation hit.

Used and New Honda's tend to be more expensive - they've got a well-earned reputation, but that boosts the price. Toyota's are similar.

Your Cavalier, as others have said, has almost no value. You might get $500 on a trade. You might sell it to someone on the street (get cash).

Don't take any crap from the dealer - especially from the finance guy or gal who will try to sell you everything under the sun from an extended warranty to glass etching (so parts can be traced if the car is stolen) It cost the dealer maybe $5 or $10. If you don't like the deal, walk. You have the power, not them.

Walk in with your own financing already set up from your bank or credit union. Also, talk to the loan person there to get the local value of the vehicle you want. Edmonds, BlueBook, Consumer Reports, etc. are fine as far as they go - but they are national, not local or regional values. In the southeast they use the "black book." You want the values that are in that book, and a good loan officer at a credit union or bank should be willing to share that information with you.

Bargain price, not payment.

The Aveo, being new, isn't worth the risk, as others have said. I've seen them. I'm not impressed.

An Accord, no matter what Honda wants you to believe, is not the same size as a Taurus. It's a lot closer to your Cavalier.

If you can afford it, and the wait, get the Honda or the Toyota with the hybrid engine. The new norm, at least as long as the Bush oil cartel stays in power, is $2+/gallon gas. (And that's with no new gas taxes to support rebuilding our roads, bridges and sidewalks and expanding public transit.)

A Ford Ranger with a 4 cylinder engine will get about 22 mpg overall. The Nissan, Toyota, Chevy equivalents will do about the same. With the little engine they won't pull any kind of a substantial trailer, but you can get your stuff in it if you have to move.

A Ford Focus, (get a 2002 or later - the earlier ones had problems) Honda Civic, Toyota Echo, Camry are all pretty good. A real estate guy I know swears by the new KIA Sedona sedans. I wouldn't touch a Kia - but they have long warranties so who knows?

Maintain the hell out of it if you want anything to last. Regular Oil Changes are vital. 30 bucks at the Quick Lube every few months is money well spent.

Againl, don't take any crap from the dealers. Go in with your financing already arranged. (Join a credit union - they tend to have great deals.) A used car will hold it's value longer than a new one. Be aware that a dealer will mark up a used car around $3,000 over what he paid - sometimes a lot more depending on the dealer and what you paid.

Stay away from the "tote-your-note" lots. Most are more trouble than they are worth.

Be a hard ass. Car sales is a bargaining game. You have two great weapons. "Too high" and walking out. Use them. If you don't make the sales manager come in to the deal, you haven't bargained hard enough.

A note - a lot of dealers will want you to pay garbage like "document preparation fees." It's crap. The folks with the family deals from the companies don't pay them (like the Ford A Plan) . You shouldn't either. Also, remember that there is commission on everything. The car. The financing. The service writer when you come in for a repair.

What you want is an out the door price - the vehicle plus tax, tag and title. Since you'll have your own financing already.

Another random note. If you do buy new, you'll probably get some kind of a satisfaction survey from the manufacturer. Your dealer needs a perfect score on that thing. It figures in to his financial relationship with the manufacturer - and whether he can get enough of the hottest new cars out or if he has to put up with the pea green Ford Aspires that nobody would ever buy. That should be worth at least a free oil change, or several. When my spouse sold cars he got $50 for every perfect form he got his customers to turn in. They all got at least a free oil change out of it.

Good luck. Be tough.

 

[lovelylisa]

I appreciate all the advice-- I just had an accident with my 1991 cavalier & she's gone I never bought a car before....what do you all suggest for someone with f-ed up credit?

 

[car nut]

with your lack of credit history, no credit is worse then bad credit! and your low down payment, and it seems you want something reliable and good on gas and cheap. If you dont mind stupid lil things breaking, like a knob falling off the radio now and then and you having to put it back on go look at a KIA you can get a fully loaded one for like 8-9 Gs?? and they have a 10 year 100,000 mile drivetrain warrenty, no one has a better warrenty.

but if you want a half way respectable car get a 99-00 grand prix GT or something like that. you cant find em in your price range and they still get good gas milage, are pretty reliable (window motors go out alot though) and wouldnt scare woman away like a KIA can lol

or you can do like me buy an old cop car caprice (94-96) for about 3-4 grand (you can get a very good condition one for 4 Gs) , spend a couple grand on performance mods and then have fun blowing the doors off camaros mustangs caddies beemers etc

 

[car nut]

oh and if your thinking foreign car... look at the price of basic maintenence and replacement parts not covered under warrenty ALOT MORE $$$ ALOT!!


oh and if you go crazy and put a giant wing and a coffee can sized muffler on it im gonna personally come down to LA and pimp slap you

 

[Lust Engine]

Even if maintaining a foreign can can be a little more expensive, they still last forever and a day. That's what keeps their value up.

Even if it is cheaper to keep a US made car, think about your time & grief taking it back & forth to the mechanic to have it fixed cheap.

 

[car nut]

think of the greif of waiting for parts from japan to get shipped here (ive seen that a couple times, took over a week, and foreign car dealers arent great at giving out rentals for free) and the added expense, and harder to find a mechanic that truely knows the car and its systems. and american cars last every bit as long as foreign cars do, its all about proper maintenence. i know of multiple caprices with 400,000 miles on the motor still running strong, cause they were maintained properly. change your oil change your oil change your oil!!!