Painting and Color Help

[SweetErika]

We just finished painting our bedroom and bathroom, but still have most of the house to do.

Do you have any invaluable tips on interior painting in terms of making it quicker, easier, less messy, etc.?

I'm also at a loss on what to do with the rest of the rooms in terms of color schemes. My problem is that I really love a few colors and am tempted to use the same palettes over and over again. For the most part, we're really attracted to natural colors and warm tones, and our style is comfortable and pretty eclectic. We like deeper wood tones, but all of the trim is a medium honey colored shade. The house is only 1650sqft, so the rooms are smaller and we generally need to keep the paint lighter so they don't feel closed in.

So far, we have:
- Master bedroom: One deep red wall, with three neutral tan, parchment-finished walls
- Master bath: Sage green
- Downstairs bath: Buttery/light yellow

We need to paint and decorate:
- Guest bath
- Living room (lots of light, high ceilings, some oddly-angled walls; will have neutral furniture)
- Dining room (connected to the living room by one wall)
- Family room/daylight basement (some natural light; will have a deep brown leather couch)
- Kitchen (not a lot of wall space, so we could afford to go with a darker color)
- Guest bedroom
- Entry/stairway


So, what have you seen or done in terms of paint and color schemes that you really love? I'm hoping to get some ideas so we don't end up with a monochromatic house.

 

[fire_breeze]

We just finished painting our bedroom and bathroom, but still have most of the house to do.

Do you have any invaluable tips on interior painting in terms of making it quicker, easier, less messy, etc.?

I'm also at a loss on what to do with the rest of the rooms in terms of color schemes. My problem is that I really love a few colors and am tempted to use the same palettes over and over again. For the most part, we're really attracted to natural colors and warm tones, and our style is comfortable and pretty eclectic. We like deeper wood tones, but all of the trim is a medium honey colored shade. The house is only 1650sqft, so the rooms are smaller and we generally need to keep the paint lighter so they don't feel closed in.

So far, we have:
- Master bedroom: One deep red wall, with three neutral tan, parchment-finished walls
- Master bath: Sage green
- Downstairs bath: Buttery/light yellow

We need to paint and decorate:
- Guest bath
- Living room (lots of light, high ceilings, some oddly-angled walls; will have neutral furniture)
- Dining room (connected to the living room by one wall)
- Family room/daylight basement (some natural light; will have a deep brown leather couch)
- Kitchen (not a lot of wall space, so we could afford to go with a darker color)
- Guest bedroom
- Entry/stairway


So, what have you seen or done in terms of paint and color schemes that you really love? I'm hoping to get some ideas so we don't end up with a monochromatic house.

I just helped several of my friends with repainting their abodes (actually, I pretty much picked the colours), along with my section of the house.And I absolutely love paints, colours and interior decorating, so I may ramble... Like yourself, I tend to lean for neutrals, and what I did was pick warm neutrals. The living room has two opposing walls that are a light butter colour and the other two a sage green, adding depth to the room. My room is a sand, and the bathroom is stone taupe.

What I did was go to the hardware store and got themed paint samples, where they grouped several colours on a single sample card. You can check out the Paint Cafe for more ideas, including opening up the space and accentuating neutrals, and where you can play with various colours (Harmony Collection, for example, offers colour combinations). With a warm honey trim, you could probably get away with cooler neutrals, such as sage, eggshell and linen.

To avoid the monochromatic look, you could always add splashes colour with throws, cushions, rugs, and painting. The great thing about neutrals is that you can accesorise however you want!

Also, if you have time, you may want to check out this and this websites for more tips.

Hope these help, and have fun!

 

[SweetErika]

I just helped several of my friends with repainting their abodes (actually, I pretty much picked the colours), along with my section of the house.And I absolutely love paints, colours and interior decorating, so I may ramble... Like yourself, I tend to lean for neutrals, and what I did was pick warm neutrals. The living room has two opposing walls that are a light butter colour and the other two a sage green, adding depth to the room. My room is a sand, and the bathroom is stone taupe.

What I did was go to the hardware store and got themed paint samples, where they grouped several colours on a single sample card. You can check out the Paint Cafe for more ideas, including opening up the space and accentuating neutrals, and where you can play with various colours (Harmony Collection, for example, offers colour combinations). With a warm honey trim, you could probably get away with cooler neutrals, such as sage, eggshell and linen.

To avoid the monochromatic look, you could always add splashes colour with throws, cushions, rugs, and painting. The great thing about neutrals is that you can accesorise however you want!

Also, if you have time, you may want to check out this and this websites for more tips.

Hope these help, and have fun!

That is helpful...thanks!

Since you've done so much painting, have you found anything that makes it easier? I've found the pad painters to be easier than the rollers so far, but I especially have trouble when it comes to the line between the wall and ceiling, if I'm not painting the ceiling. Masking the ceiling is an option, but that's time consuming.

We've also had trouble with paint leaking under the tape when we're doing different colored walls due to the 'orangepeel' texture on the walls. No matter how well we press the tape down, we seem to get an uneven line.

Anyone have fixes for that?

 

[Weird Harold]

We've also had trouble with paint leaking under the tape when we're doing different colored walls due to the 'orangepeel' texture on the walls. No matter how well we press the tape down, we seem to get an uneven line.

When you're "Cutting In" from the edges, use a 8 or 12 inch putty-knife instead of masking tape. Where the wall surface is textured, a strip of foam tape along the edge of the putty-knife will conform to the texture, but is difficult to keep clean.

Since the walls have texture and you're using paint-pads instead rollers, try wiping the paint off while it's still wet -- exposing the old color on the plateaus of the texturing and leaving the new color in the valleys. (works best with a dark color over a light color.

Look into stamps for some of the walls -- or you can make your own stamps from kitchen sponges. Done well, it looks like block-print wallpaper, done poorly it looks like youhired a kindergarten class to do your painting.

Speaking of Wallpaper, you might give some thought to wallpapering instead of painting -- it's not as difficult as situation comedies make it look and with a little research for tips and tricks, it's an easy way to add variety to walls.

 

[PertPerth]

I've just finished (well, almost) my 4th renovator's delight...do DIY/painting/renovations is a passion of mine. I prefer to keep walls very pale Off white, beige, light yellow. I think that greens tend to feel too much like a hospital and blues are too 'cool' for a home. I have a lot of wood, so I have used deep red curtains as an accent to bring colour into the rooms.

I'm a fan of painting the ceilings - white. It adds height and it's amazing the difference of how much cleaner and newer the place feels. (I'm just trying to convince my boyfriend of that!)

I'd also recommend using a roller, not a spray or pad applicator. It's all about the texture finish, and I prefer a satin as it's the best for general wear, easier to clean, yet doesn't reflect too much light. Textured paint (like suede effects etc) are a B***ch and a half to paint over if you decide in a year or two that it's not your style. Fashions change!

Most importantly - prepare your walls! Wash, scrub if you have to, with sugar soap (especially the kitchen and bathroom). You'll get a much nicer finish and the paint will last longer.

General paint tips :
Paint slowly - finishing off in one direction so that you don't get any nasty strange shapes. You might not see them until it's dry...and then only at certain times of the day, but they'll be there.

Mix paint well - and once you've started on a brand of paint, use it in each room. It's a minor thing, but the texture of paints (brand to brand) can be quite different.

DO NOT use masking tape to create edges when painting. Ever. Period. It's great for sticking newspaper to windows - but not to mask! All you need is time, patience and a slightly steady hand and a fine brush - or a brush with a nice, long flat head. If you make the line about 1/2 an inch (1cm) under the ceiling or cornice then it'll look perfect when standing on the floor. Trust me - even if it's not perfectly straight, it'll look good from ground level.
Having said that, there are a number of edging things you can buy from the hardware store - I've tried several and ended up going back to using my nice paint brush!

Spend a lot of money on 1 brush - if it's a good, comfortable brush, it's all you'll need. As I said, I've reno'd 4 places - one brush lasts two houses (that is both in and outside!)

Don't be afraid to come back and touch up later. As long as you mix your paint well, then it should blend in nicely.

...and if I think of anything else, I'll let you know!

Happy Painting!

 

[SweetErika]

When you're "Cutting In" from the edges, use a 8 or 12 inch putty-knife instead of masking tape. Where the wall surface is textured, a strip of foam tape along the edge of the putty-knife will conform to the texture, but is difficult to keep clean.

Since the walls have texture and you're using paint-pads instead rollers, try wiping the paint off while it's still wet -- exposing the old color on the plateaus of the texturing and leaving the new color in the valleys. (works best with a dark color over a light color.

Look into stamps for some of the walls -- or you can make your own stamps from kitchen sponges. Done well, it looks like block-print wallpaper, done poorly it looks like youhired a kindergarten class to do your painting.

Speaking of Wallpaper, you might give some thought to wallpapering instead of painting -- it's not as difficult as situation comedies make it look and with a little research for tips and tricks, it's an easy way to add variety to walls.

I did wonder about the long, putty knife/ruler type thing in the store for edging. I'll give the putty knife a shot on the bathroom later today on a hidden area, since I've already masked the whole room off.

I'm going to try the wiping off thing somewhere. I accidentally tested it when I was trying a ceiling color in the bedroom, and while that was the wrong shade, I can see where it'd be a cool effect elsewhere. Maybe in the guestroom, pulling some of the really soft blues and greens from a favorite painting. Thanks for the reminder!

While it would have been easier than faux finishing the bedroom walls, we just say NO to wallpaper. We like being able to change colors easily since our style is still very much developing and don't want to have to strip when we decide to go for a fresh look. Plus, at $15/gallon for really high quality paint at my nearest Costco, paint's a lot easier on our budget.

I've just finished (well, almost) my 4th renovator's delight...do DIY/painting/renovations is a passion of mine. I prefer to keep walls very pale Off white, beige, light yellow. I think that greens tend to feel too much like a hospital and blues are too 'cool' for a home. I have a lot of wood, so I have used deep red curtains as an accent to bring colour into the rooms.

I only associate two specific shades of green with hospitals, but I do really love the earthy and sagey greens.

I agree on the blues, though. One of our bedrooms is light blue (it's a child's room) and I hate it. Touches here and there and the right combination can look amazing, but it's a section I definitely shy away from when looking at paint samples. I've been considering going really wild and doing our guest bath in a dark blue and crisp white. I've seen that effect in other bathrooms before, and it can look really sharp. I've always loved the old blue and white china and would love to put up wainscoting to give it a vintage feel. However, we don't use that bathroom a ton and it's not huge, so I feel like I can take more license and do something a little more crazy in there.

I'm a fan of painting the ceilings - white. It adds height and it's amazing the difference of how much cleaner and newer the place feels. (I'm just trying to convince my boyfriend of that!)

We were going to leave the bedroom ceiling white, but with four colored walls it just ended up looking really unfinished. The compromise was a light cream that coordinated with three of the walls and still worked with the deep red on the fourth.

It depends on the color and decorating schemes though. White can certainly do what you say in many cases, but I don't think anything is lost by going with an off-white shade if it looks more pulled together.

I'd also recommend using a roller, not a spray or pad applicator. It's all about the texture finish, and I prefer a satin as it's the best for general wear, easier to clean, yet doesn't reflect too much light. Textured paint (like suede effects etc) are a B***ch and a half to paint over if you decide in a year or two that it's not your style. Fashions change!

That's good to know about the special effects paint. I was considering suede or something for our bedroom, but wondered about repainting and was very put off by the price, so I went with regular paint with a faux finish instead.

The roller, well, it's uncomfortable for me to use on large areas, or rather it's less comfortable than the pad painter. My neck and shoulder injuries seem to do better with a pulling motion than pushing up the roller, and I'm able to work on more areas with the pad. Personal preference, I suppose.

Most importantly - prepare your walls! Wash, scrub if you have to, with sugar soap (especially the kitchen and bathroom). You'll get a much nicer finish and the paint will last longer.

What's sugar soap?

DO NOT use masking tape to create edges when painting. Ever. Period. It's great for sticking newspaper to windows - but not to mask! All you need is time, patience and a slightly steady hand and a fine brush - or a brush with a nice, long flat head. If you make the line about 1/2 an inch (1cm) under the ceiling or cornice then it'll look perfect when standing on the floor. Trust me - even if it's not perfectly straight, it'll look good from ground level.
Having said that, there are a number of edging things you can buy from the hardware store - I've tried several and ended up going back to using my nice paint brush!

We've done pretty well with the blue painter's tape for masking off trim and such (we're not the most coordinated people ), but I agree, I need a fine brush for the corners if I'm doing different colors. The brush definitely works better than anything else I've used so far for going agains tape on the walls; I suppose that's because I can control the amount of paint on it and the direction it's going better, so seepage due to texture variations is very minimal and easily corrected with a little touching up.

I'll remember the tip on not painting right to the ceiling's edge.

 

[NippleMuncher]

A good quality brush will last you a good deal longer than two houses as long as it's properly cared for. You can't go wrong with a Baker or Purdy brush, a 3" sash brush or angled brush is less than $20 and will make a world of difference over no-name cheapies. Brush care is equally important to quality. While painting, don't let the paint get down to the ferrel (metal band around brush ) or let paint dry in the bristles. Periodic cleaning during use may be in order, depending on drying conditions and the type of work being done. Brush cleaning and storage - Once dry paint starts to build up in the bristles, use lacquer thinner or brush cleaner/conditioner to thoroughly clean the bristles. Follow with warm soapy water, rinse well, shake excess water from bristles, but leave wet enough to form bristles into a nice point and allow to fully dry. Always use the brush protectors when the brush is in storage to prevent damage.

When using masking tape for the line, it is important to use a fairly dry brush and swipe from the surface of the tape onto the wall. This will apply the paint to the wall along the edge of the tape. What generally happens is that we get into a hurry and swipe in both directions with a brush that is too wet (laden with paint ), the edge of the tape acts as a scraper and removes too much paint from the brush, resulting in the bleeding and pooling under the tape. As was said, with a steady hand, you can paint a pretty decent transition line better than with using tape, just lightly draw a pencil line or use the tape for a quick reference, then remove before doing it by hand. When painting corners, run a bead of latex caulking the length of the corner. The caulk will fill the texture voids, as well as provide a slick surface for the brush to ride against. You don't need a lot, just a thin bead and lay it off with a wet finger in both directions. Let the caulk cure before painting. Now, when you cut that corner in, the bristles will glide and leave a perfect line. If you want more info/tips on caulking technique, let me know. Caulking is one of the easiest things to do.

I agree that roller applied paint will look and perform better than spray application, with exception to acoustic textured ceilings (aka popcorn). Acoustic ceilings tend to become globbed with paint, leaving a less than professional look, for this reason I prefer using an airless paint sprayer and spraying the ceiling in 4 opposing directions so that all the irregularities are evenly coated and no shadowing occurs. Another helpful item when it comes to large surfaces or a lot of painting is a power roller. The Wagner unit is pretty inexpensive and does a fair job or you could look into a more professional unit. The great thing about a power roller is that there is no dripping and no time wasted going back and forth to the paint pan to re-wet the roller. A quick flip of a trigger adds more paint to the roller as it's needed.

As for color suggestions, sounds like you've got a pretty good handle on which to use and how to use them. I will offer some suggestions on how to add some spice to an otherwise drab environment or small space that doesn't lend itself to full color walls. Crown moldings and trim can be used to accent even the smallest toilet closet with the most dramatic results. Even if the trim is painted the same color as the walls, it's a detail that adds a lot to the environment. A chair rail on an otherwise lifeless wall will add character, contrast the color to the wall and you have something, paint the lower half of the wall and you really start adding charm. Running trim around a bathroom mirror is quick and easy too, though there is a bit of a trick, since the mirror will reflect any unpainted surface that it "sees".

Hope this info helps.

 

[fire_breeze]

I do prefer the rollers, but seeing as you mentioned your preference, go with what you are comfortable with. When I paint walls, I leave about 7 cm (app. 2 1/2 inches) from the ceiling and molding, and then use a quality brush to finish the job. There is a pad on a roller that is used for edging, but I only used it once, so I couldn't really tell you if it helped.

As for tapes, I use painter's tape. I have no idea how much it costs (I get them from the theatre I used to work at) but I do know that they are great.

The only other thing I suggest is what Pert mentioned and that to paint at an even pace with an even pressure. I work with music, and what I do is select songs with generally the same tempo so that it keeps me paced (if that makes any sense).

Oh, and vintage blue with a crisp arctic white is great look, especially for a smallish room - it gives it a calm island feel.

Hope it helps and good luck. Keep us posted!

 

[alaskabibear]

Erica,

I painted professionally in my youth and I wanted to quickly emphasize what NippleMuncher said above;

Buy a quality sash tool (a brush with an angled slope designed for cutting edges). I would suggest a 1 1/2" or 2" size for starters. I have always liked Purdy brand and be sure to get one recommended for the type of paint you are using (assuming latex)(I like natural bristle over synthetic). You will soon be cutting in like a pro! This is so much faster and better than masking that you should just bite the bullet and learn to do it. (and if you get into cabinets or such where the 1 1/2"just feels to big, there is no rule that you can't go smaller - I have even used artist brushes at times - it's still faster and better I think)

One person can go around the room cutting in floor/wall, wall/ceiling, doors/windows etc, while the other comes behind and paints in the walls. (just use a small quart size cup as you go around and don't try to drag around the gallon can). You always want to keep your brush full with enough paint as you cut, if it starts sounding "dry" and drags, dip it again (just the tip - don't drown it!) - turn the brush on edge and make your first cut close in to the ceiling - cut in about 10'' to 12" in length - then turn the brush flat and go back and widen your cut to about 2" or so in order to get enough room away from the ceiling so the other person can roll or pad w/o touching the ceiling. (one final thought - you should just plan on at least two coats of quality paint to get a good cover - one coat and you will have what painter's call "holidays" and it's hard to see them all until you've hung the pictures and your sitting back admiring your work - opps!)

As to color - I learned a long time ago to not go there!

 

[SweetErika]

I don't know how quality the 2" brush I'm using is by Purdy/whatever standards, but it's doing a pretty good job on the edges. It's a natural bristle brush that came in a "Professional Painting Kit" from Costco (for $17...what a deal!) and has held up really well through 3 rooms so far.

I still need a smaller brush for some things and probably won't abandon taping altogether (the previous owners did and got white paint all over everything ), but I think the cutting thing is just a matter of practice and getting my confidence up. I think I can, I think I can...

Back to the salt mines...errr...unfinished bathroom!

 

[PertPerth]

IWhat's sugar soap?

It's basically an alkaline cleaner - great for everyday cleaning and it's not expensive. In a stronger solution - brilliant at cleaning painted walls! It is composed of sodium carbonate and sodium phosphate and you can get it in a powder or liquid form. I find the liquid faster to disolve/get the right strength :
http://www.selleys.com.au/Selleys-Liquid-Sugar-Soap/default.aspx
I have used it to clean all the grease off my grandmother's kitchen walls and ceiling. It was such a good cleaner that she didn't bother to get it painted after that!

A good quality brush will last you a good deal longer than two houses as long as it's properly cared for.

Agreed....but I was lazy at first. My current one has done more painting and is still in perfect condition. I learned the trick of soaking my brush in a little sugar soap solution for a couple of hours, rather than just a quick rinse. It helps all the paint residue to come off easily.

 

[alaskabibear]

I don't know how quality the 2" brush I'm using is by Purdy/whatever standards, but it's doing a pretty good job on the edges. It's a natural bristle brush that came in a "Professional Painting Kit" from Costco (for $17...what a deal!) and has held up really well through 3 rooms so far.

I still need a smaller brush for some things and probably won't abandon taping altogether (the previous owners did and got white paint all over everything ), but I think the cutting thing is just a matter of practice and getting my confidence up. I think I can, I think I can...

Back to the salt mines...errr...unfinished bathroom!

SE, The important thing is not so much the size, but that it is a "sash brush" with an angled tip. The angled tip makes the brush form itself into point easier. Did your kit have something like this in it? (it should look like someone took scissors to the end of the brush and cut about a 15 degree angle on it) If I could only buy one good brush, this would be my choice (and Purdy is just a brand name - can be found at most home improvement stores like Home Depot, etc - my guess is that the one I'm suggesting would be about $15 - but should last you a lifetime if you take care of it).

Oh, and another little tip; don't use plastic for your drop/drip cloth on floors - get a roll of "brown paper" instead. You only a need bit of protection around the walls (unless you do the ceilings)- the problem with those light plastic things is that they don't absorb the paint drips nor does the paint dry quickly on them - the result is that you walk in the paint and the mess just tends to grow. (pros use cloth "drop cloths" and they too last forever) - don't just throw the paper out after one use either - just roll up the pieces and save them for the next spot. I usually roll out the paper around the entire perimeter of the room and tack it to the baseboard with masking tape to keep it in place close to the wall. (seems like a much more environmentally friendly approach as well - we are all being "smothered" in plastic as it is!)

If I were closer, I would do it for you guys - but alas, we're stuck in the arctic...

 

[SweetErika]

SE, The important thing is not so much the size, but that it is a "sash brush" with an angled tip. The angled tip makes the brush form itself into point easier. Did your kit have something like this in it? (it should look like someone took scissors to the end of the brush and cut about a 15 degree angle on it) If I could only buy one good brush, this would be my choice (and Purdy is just a brand name - can be found at most home improvement stores like Home Depot, etc - my guess is that the one I'm suggesting would be about $15 - but should last you a lifetime if you take care of it).

Oh, and another little tip; don't use plastic for your drop/drip cloth on floors - get a roll of "brown paper" instead. You only a need bit of protection around the walls (unless you do the ceilings)- the problem with those light plastic things is that they don't absorb the paint drips nor does the paint dry quickly on them - the result is that you walk in the paint and the mess just tends to grow. (pros use cloth "drop cloths" and they too last forever) - don't just throw the paper out after one use either - just roll up the pieces and save them for the next spot. I usually roll out the paper around the entire perimeter of the room and tack it to the baseboard with masking tape to keep it in place close to the wall. (seems like a much more environmentally friendly approach as well - we are all being "smothered" in plastic as it is!)

If I were closer, I would do it for you guys - but alas, we're stuck in the arctic...

Yeah, it's angled like that, so I guess it's a sash brush. It worked well. Today I'm putting a second coat on the bathroom to even out the job (the previous owners painted around the mirror and light fixture, which we are changing ), and it should look good. I bought a second kit just in case, and now that I know the brushes are really good, I'll keep it for the future.

My drop cloth is good canvas with a thin plastic backing. At $7 for a 9x12, I couldn't resist. It did a great job in the bedroom, and now it's working in the bathroom.

 

[alaskabibear]

Yeah, it's angled like that, so I guess it's a sash brush. It worked well. Today I'm putting a second coat on the bathroom to even out the job (the previous owners painted around the mirror and light fixture, which we are changing ), and it should look good. I bought a second kit just in case, and now that I know the brushes are really good, I'll keep it for the future.

My drop cloth is good canvas with a thin plastic backing. At $7 for a 9x12, I couldn't resist. It did a great job in the bedroom, and now it's working in the bathroom.

You're starting to sound like a "pro" to me -now you can start telling other timid painters that they just need a good sash tool! And you got a bargain on the drop cloth! One of the down sides to Alaska is few bargains to be found.

 

[SweetErika]

You're starting to sound like a "pro" to me -now you can start telling other timid painters that they just need a good sash tool! And you got a bargain on the drop cloth! One of the down sides to Alaska is few bargains to be found.

You don't have Costco in the bigger cities there? I'm lucky that my nearest one has a paint center. Primer is $9/gallon and paint that covers really well is $12-15, depending on the finish. At those prices, I can afford to screw up on the colors once in awhile.

The dropcloth was SUCH a bargain that we bought two. One for painting, and another for wax play, fire play and other "messy" sexual endeavors.

 

[alaskabibear]

You don't have Costco in the bigger cities there? I'm lucky that my nearest one has a paint center. Primer is $9/gallon and paint that covers really well is $12-15, depending on the finish. At those prices, I can afford to screw up on the colors once in awhile.

The dropcloth was SUCH a bargain that we bought two. One for painting, and another for wax play, fire play and other "messy" sexual endeavors.

You're right! There is a Costco (and Sam's) here. We usually just shop for business supplies there, didn't think about them for things like drop cloths for hanky-panky!

 

[Zaithian]

Hey there Erika, I know what you mean when it comes to panting and stuff. Im an artist so trust me color is one of those things that even kills me! Here is some good basic advice when it comes to picking colors and painting.

1) Get color samples - I love going to Home Depot or Lowes, or your hardware center and just looking at all the available colors. Each company has its own forumla when it comes to paints, so you really should be like 1 color : 1 company. Not 1 color : 2 companies, because then when it dries its possible it might dry differently and Company's A red might not be the same as Company B.

2) Paint color samples and let it dry - You should easily be able to get color samples from the paint sections where they mix colors. They are like lil 3 oz. cans that are really cheap or free even. Paint some on a flat primed board and some on your wall that you would like that color to be. On the board put the colors next to each other, put some on top of one another if you want to. This will help you see that the color you pick are nice and dont make you go like blah!

3) Prep the shit out of everything! - And this is the most funnnnn part! I find a lot decent drop cloths from the dollar store believe it or not! But they are really thin, and can break easily, so they are good for windows, or furniture, that sort of thing. You can get clear plastic drop cloths anywhere.
3a) Prime me up Scotty! - Now everyone knows you get white primer. But did you know that you can get dark colored primers or primers in different colors that will save you coatings of your main color? Here is an example: I want a nice deep lavender in the guest bedroom. If I put a white primer its going to take me 3 or 4 coatings to get it that shade I want. But if I put a primer with a purple in it (not too deep mind you, kind of on the light side) it will only take me about 2 coats. Talk with the paint guys about tinting your primers, they should help you out there with no problems. When you are tinting you want to go with a lighter version of that color usually.
3b) Anyone got tape? - Taping is long and tedious but it is well worth it in the end. You want to get the 3Ms Painters Tape. Its blue and lightly sticky and perfect for straight lines! You can get it in difference sizes and in bulk. Usually 1 roll of tape is good for one large living room, I would say, though it depends on what you do. When you have to tape corners and you should do it in small spurts but dont break the tape. Like you tape 3 ft, holding onto the main roll and shift over and continue. Its alright if your anal about how close to the corner you have it, better to be anal now than go back in lil by little and do it.

4) Finally Painting! - Get some good soft brushes and paint rollers always. And have plenty of them around. For brushes you dont need that many as you'll mostly use it for corners and touch ups. But you should have 1 roller for every color, even black and deep black.
4a) Paint Rollers - Dont mix up colors for your paint rollers! You will get odd color variations as it dries, you can see streaks or dots of Red and Red Orange. You have your paint tray full of primer or your color, you see that ridged section, its there for a reason not a pretty design. What you should do is, dip your roller in the pool, about 1/4 of it I would say, and start rolling it along those ridges. Make sure you turn your roller so every part of your roller gets some paint/primer on it. You want it to the point were is sounds like Rice Krispies. You know the snap, crackle, pop sounds? Then you can start rolling onto the wall.

When you're done with your roller, scrape off the left over paint and put it back into the bucket. Take off your roller and right away soak it into hot water. Boil up some water before hand and into a large bucket, throw your rollers in there and pour the water in. Let them soak for a few hours and stare ringing them out as best as you can. Remember what roller you used for what color.
4b) Brushes - Get a nice set of soft brushes and just make sure they stay soft and clean. Put them in hot water when you're done for the day. If your brushes get hard, you'll get streaks as you paint and have a hard time getting good smooth surfaces.
4c) Sanding?! (Optional) - This is purely optional but you can sand between coats. Im not kidding! See when you roll on you get little bumps and runs some times from the paint roller. If you have time, and you want a smooth finish you can do a light sanding over the surface. I suggest something like 600 or 1000 grit paper. You can get a sanding pole, just a stick with a hinged holder for paper, and you can scrape the wall lightly. It will only take a few seconds here and there. You can get it to the point where its a very smooth finish if you sand between layers. And you dont have to sand a lot either, just a single swipe up and down along the wall. Or 2, if the person decided to go a lil happy with paint.
5) I need more paint! - Make sure you save the color codes on the paint cans if you have custom colors. They say how much of what they put in the base paint to get your color. Like I want a sand stone, they put in base: Tan, Black: 5%, Green 2%, Silver 1%. If those numbers get changed you will get a difference color! Even if they mix it up right, test it to make sure it is drying properly and close if not an exact match of your color


Oks thats all I can think of at 1:50am in the morning for painting. If you like some opinions when it comes to color, let me know. Maybe in the morning I'll write up about color schemes and basic color dos and donts.

Good morning all and sweet dreams!

Zaithian Knightwolf

 

[mjl2010]

Here's my number one painting tip, although if you don't use rollers, it won't be much help.

If you plan on using the roller the next day, with the same color paint, don't bother cleaning it. Leave it fully saturated with paint and put it in a plastic grocery bag, get all the air out, wrap the bag tight around the handle of the roller, then add a second bag. It costs nothing, saves you paint (a good roller holds more than a cup) and saves you the trouble of cleaning the roller.

My second tip is this, a good paint will cover decently with one coat over primer or a slightly lighter color paint. Using a cheaper paint that doesn't cover quite as well, a room that requires a gallon of good paint for one coat of paint will cost you more if you have to paint it twice.

The other advice I've read seems good. Using a 2" sash brush for cutting in, good. Also good for painting moldings, if you're doing that. Great for window sashes as well.

The pads on a roller for cutting in work ok, until you get paint on the rollers, then you've got paint streaks on the ceiling. A steady hand (no coffee for breakfast) will help a lot with the cut in brush.

When painting walls, I lay down a strip of red rosin builders paper. It's 2 or 2.5 feet wide and you can lay it along the wall you're working on. Just keep everything over the paper.

Disposable tray liners are great. like .49 each and you toss em at the end of the day into your recycle bin. Better than dumping paint down your drain when you clean out the tray.

Latex paints clean up with water. Clean your brushes out in a small pail of water first. Do a final rinse in the sink. Let the brushes dry and let the water evaporate from your bucket, then toss the residue in the trash. Safe, legal and won't pollute the rivers.

Buy the blue painters tape at the home center. I use 2 inch wide rolls and they cost $7 each. Not great for pebble finishes, but you can still use it to mask off the ceilings, if your hand is not so steady. Apply it carefully and press the edge against the painted wall FIRMLY into the corner with the tip of your finger. If the paint is seeping under it, you're applying too much paint.

Ok, if you want to know more, you have to hire me.

truly I'll answer any question you have, but its near 2 AM now.

MJL