Ekserb
You really hate me.
- Joined
- Jun 19, 2002
- Posts
- 4,226
Yes I would like to take period pictures at some point. We only have one local event with a period photographer and he makes a mint. I was at the 150th shiloh event this year and they at 3 Photographers. The price range was 30-50 for a half plate(roughly 5x7). Our guy does them for about 35 and 10 for each print which isnt bad at all for the time he puts into them. I thought it would be fun to learn and a decent side job but the repop cameras are so expensive its almost not worth it. I need to find how to build one. I dont believe they're complex. I scan the image i had done and up load it in a bit when I can get to the Scanner. As for this process, Getting plates isn't the problem, the camera is.
Until i find a camera, maybe you can give me some advice on photo editing techniques to shop a modern photo to look similar to a tintype
Remy
Edit. Professional tintype and one of my edits to try and replacate it.
The first thing I would suggest is to use only available light for the photos or use some kind of flash mounted off the camera. The old photographers didn't have access to dedicated flash units and the lighting from a modern camera-mounted flash is a dead giveaway. The subjects were frequently squinting because the plates were not very sensitive to light and the pictures were shot during the brightest time of day in direct sunlight. The flash powder of the day was relatively slow burning and very brilliant, so this also forced people to close their eyes during the exposure.
(I will eventually write a few paragraphs on the use of flash, reflectors, and, briefly, studio lighting.)
Also, because those old cameras invariably used a lens shutter, the photographs almost always had a bit of vignetting around the corners. This was caused by the shutter itself opening from the center of the lens toward the inside of the lens barrel and then back again. This type of shutter results in a slightly longer exposure in the middle of the image and thus creates the vignette effect. (Focal plane shutters such as those found in SLRs avoid this problem, but many photographers add a little vignette in post processing to darken the corners and draw attention to the center of the image.) The central brightness was also usually accompanied by clear focus only near the middle of the image as those lenses were typically not the greatest design or glass construction.
There are lots of software programs that simulate the damaged and fogged edges of a film plate. You can probably do it yourself with any decent digital editing package, but it will very likely end up looking like you did it yourself. One trick is to roughen the edges of a blank sheet of paper and add some scratches and stains to the central field. Then scan this page and add it as a layer over your original image. Use some variation on the Multiply, Screen, or Overlay blending technique to get the right look.
Try that and see what happens!