Advice / Ideas for when I tie up my gf

I enjoy tying my gf up on a regular basis. If we're in the bed, I'll tie her spreadeagle to the bed then kiss her all over, play with her, and tickle her. I've eaten ice cream off of her tummy but that's the only food I've used so far.

Outside of the bedroom, I usually just tie her hands behind her back so I can make out with her and stuff.

I rarely use ropes because I am not good at tying knots. I usually use leather wrist cuffs or "sports cuffs" and on occasion--silk ties.
 
woodcarver said:
There are also outlets for padded cuffs and these are exceptional. A bit over priced but worth it. I ended up making a set some time ago that was cheaper and more personally designed.

You have instructions or drawings for how you made them? Love to see them.
 
Here is one of the easiest ways of making some bondage restraints, especially if what you want to do is to tie up your honey speadeagle.

Materials

150' of 1/8" (about) cord
a ball of cotton household twine
a length of heavy thread
a small bottle of white glue

Tools

Scissors
A couple of wooden clothespins
A needle
An icepick, a phillips screwdriver or a big nail (optional)
a soldering iron or matches, a candle, a butane lighter.

About cord

Every hardware store, Mart store, Home Depot type store sells something called "utility cord." It's about 1/8" in diameter, (9/64" is about 1/8", 7/32" is closer to 1/4"), has a braided cover, is cotton covered or nylon covered over a core. It's sold in plastic bags that have handks in them of 45', 48' or 50' and costs about $2 or $3 per hank. That's good.

Craft and fabric stores sell some cord of about the same diameter, usually as a macrame cord, that can also be used. If that's what you get, it is usually sold by the foot. You want, in total, 12 strands at least 11' to 15' long. Fabric stores sometimes sell a small diameter silk covered cord for curtain tie backs etc. If you can get the silk or silk covered cord, that stuff is the best. It, too is sold by the foot.

Technique

Cut the cord into a total of 12 lengths of about 11' to 15' long. If the ends of the cord you bought are frayed, trim off the frayed ends. Put a dot of white glue on the cut ends so they will not continue to fray. If you have nylon, dacron or some other plastic cord, cut it with the soldering iron to heat fuse the ends, or cut with scissors and use matches, a candle, etc. to heat fuse the cut ends.

Middle 3 strands and hang them over your left hand, with the midpoint across the back of the left hand. About 1 foot below the midpoint, (on the side on the back of your hand) bind the three cords together with the clothespin.

Now start a simple three strand plait-the same one a little girl uses to plait her hair. Move the left cord over the middle cord and bury it. Now move the right cord over the middle cord and bury it. Keep this up until you have at least 6" to as much as 9" of plaiting. Bring the two ends of the plaiting together and bind the six cords together with the clothespin, flat.

Congatulations. You have now made an eye. The eye should be at least a big around as a quarter, and maybe as much as 3" in diameter.

Now start some six strand braiding. Take 4 cords in the left hand and two in the right. Take the leftmost strand and lay it over the other three, moving it to the right hand. You now have three cords in the right hand. Take the rightmost strand and lay it across the other two on the right, moving it to the left hand. You now have four cords in the left hand. Continue plaiting with the left over three and the righ over two for several turns. Take the clothespin off after you have passed six or seven complete plaits. Move the clothespin to the bottom of the six strand plaiting. Take your ice pick, screwdriver or nail and use it as a marlinspike to tighten up your six strand plaiting. Just pull down a little on each plait, working the slack downwards throught the plaiting.

Continue the six strand plaiting, tightening it up from time to time, until you have about 12" to 15" of six strand plait. Bind with the clothespin and determine which of the six strands is shortest. Contine the six strand until the shortest strand is in the far left position. Drop the shortest strand.

You now have five strands, three in the left hand, two in the right. Plaiit the left most strand over two, moving the leftmost strand to the lowest position in the right hand. You now have three strands in the right hand. Take the rightmost strand over two strand,s moving it to the lowest position in the left hand. This is five strand braiding. Keep it up until you have some 18" or so of five strand plaiting. Find the shortest strand and continue to plait until the shortest strand is in the far right position and drop it.

You now have four strands, three in the right hand and on in the left. Left outside strand goes over two and to the right. Far right strand goes over one and back to the left. Keep up making a four strand plait until your remaining cord is down to about 2 1/2 or 3 feet left. Find the shortest strand and when it become the strand farthest left, drop it.

You now have three strands left. Plait them as three strand braid, just as you did the eye, util one of them runs out. You now have two strands. Using a piece of twine, tie a simple overhand knot around the two strands, turn the plait over and tie another overhand knot on the other side of the two strands. Continue to tie overhand knots up the two strands back to the point at which you ran out of the third strand, flipping the work over and alternating the side on which you tie the overhand knot. If you want to be technical, this is called "West Country Whipping." Continuous overhand knots should not be required for more than about 1/2" to an inch. Tie a second overhand knot on top of the last overhand knot you tied. This will make either a reef knot or a granny knot. It really won't matter which you tied. Cut off the loose ends of the twine and put a dab of white glue on top of the knot you just tied to finish the "whipping."

Now turn the whole affair over. You have the three loose cords that you dropped dangling off the back. Using the needle and thread, stitch the loose cord to the cord above it with two or three stout stitches, then cut off the remainder of the dropped cord. Thos three dropped cords are scrap.

You have now made a rat tail "whip." Do it three more times and you have a set of four. They should be anywhere from 4 1/2 feet long to 5 1/2 feet long, depending on how tight you kept your plaiting and how long the cords you started with were.

I can whip out a set of four of these in an hour or so. It should not take you more than an evening in fron of tv, even if you have never done this sort of thing before, to braid up a set of four.

Using the whips for restraint.

Take a whip and place the eye on your bonde's wrist. Bring the tail up through the eye and pull down tight. Pass the tail under the strand behind the eye and back over the top of the eye. Pass the tail back through the eye and adjust for tightness and comfort. The tail can now be tied to any convenient bedpost. A clove hitch, cow hitch, or any simple, fairly secure knot can be used to ties to the bedpost. Do the same thing with the other wrist and both ankles.

These flat, ribbonlike bands are comfortable and won't chafe, cut or bind. They are cheap and quickly made. The part that goes around the bondee's extremities is nearly 3/4" wide and flat. They are pretty to look at. If tied simply to a bedpost they will be so easy and quick to untie that you likely will never need those trauma shears.
You might also wish to make your own

Spreader bars

These are especially convenient if your bed lacks a headboard of a foot board.

Materials

Six eyebolts with 1" eyes and 1 1/2" or longer bolts.

Six nuts.

Two broom handles.

Tools

Drill and 1/4" drill bit
wrench sized to your nuts

Drill three holes in each broom handle. Two holes go about 1 1/2" from each end, the third hole goes in the middle. The bolts are then placed in the holes, the two on the outside pointing in the same direction, the one in the middle pointing opposite the other two. Tighten the nuts onto the eyebolts.

Bondee's wrists and ankles are tied to the ends of the bars. A spare piece of rope or cord is tied to the boldt in the middle and the other end tied to any convenient attachment point, such as the bedframe.

Or you could palit up two more whips for the center eyes and attach them the same way you attached them to the bondee.

Enjoy.

Oh, and if any knotters are reading this board, the technique I have described for plaiting these whips is the simplest. I know how to make them prettier, such as doing the whole thing in French or English sinnet, but that is more complicated to decribe. So this is the easiest way, not the prettiest.
 
Amfig said:
i would not. Climbing rope, like sailboat rope, is an engineered fiber for some very specific heavy duty applications. Climbing rope is rater expensive, like sailboat rope. Clibing rope tends to have a slightly slick cover-hence the fairly elaborate knots used in climbing.

For erotic restraint you don't need an engineered fiber like climbing or sailboat rope. You need soft, non-marring. Yacht grade manile, if you can find it, is quite good. Some jute and some hemp rope is soft enough. Cotton is good. Sisal is bad. Nylon is good, and the stretchiness will not matter as you are using short lengths. Polypropolene is too slick and does not knot well. Polyester is quite strong, but tends to be expensive. Mixed fiber cotton/polypropolene blends are often cheap qand some have enough cotton in them to hold knots well. Look in the hardware store for "sash cord."

If you are using a single strand to bind with, as opposed to multistrand applications, never use anything smaller than 3/8" diameter. Smaller stuff can cut skin and will usually produce rope burns, at the least.

You want to know from rope and knots, ask a sailor, I say.

So much information, now you got me more confused than before! *g* (plaiting sounds good though)
 
His Whimsicality said:
So much information, now you got me more confused than before! *g* (plaiting sounds good though)

Think you can follow those instructions or do I need to try to get some pictures to go with them?
 
i dont' know if anyone else has posted this but... take a small sqig of a non sticky high proof alchol.. (not enough to get drunk mind you.. jsut enough t wet your mouth) and lick sensitive areas (i'd avoid the vaginal area due tot he possiblity of the alchol messing up the delicate chemical balences down there) areas such as nipples and the spot thwere the torso and the thigh meet arround the bikin line and the inside upper arm...
when oyu lick the area the partner feels the warmth from your mouth than the alchol has a tendacy of evaporating faster so if you blow on it lightly it'll cool the area...
vanilla ice cream is also fun to lick off...
and this is a lot different form those but it causes mostly a tickling sensation anyway... if you can get a spur.... (make sure it will rotate without too much pressure you don't want it to drag on the skin) when you run it over the skin it pricks ever so lightly that it tickles instead of hurts...
 
Amfig said:
Think you can follow those instructions or do I need to try to get some pictures to go with them?

No no, your description was very accurate, thank you! (wouldn´t mind a few pictures though *g*)
 
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