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The 50 Plus Cafe, Pub, All-Nite Greasy Spoon and Dive Bar

subdudeme13 said:
Great pictures, I am curious about the stone building. It reminds me of an old mill.
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It is an old mill. It came with our farm property. It’s from 1789 or 1810, depending on who you ask… If you ask me, it’s 1789. 😂

It’s 5000 ft.² and most of it is original. The walls are about 3 feet thick. It’s a solid building. I’m doing very minor work to restore it, but the next owner will be able to make it theirs.
 
Bloody Neighbours! Grrrr ruined my bloody day… been out on the hill, then taught fly tying and get home 14 hours later to find they have they have turned the place into a bloody public housing scheme. They don't even own the house, only bloody rent it.

And now I have cut the trees down I can bloody see them ….. Christmas Lights…. On 12 November for Christ sake. Who wants to sea a bloody snowman projected onto the gable end and Santas Sleigh in the bloody windows. Someone with no bloody class that is who!

I have no problem with Christmas lights being up in November…. Up in the Bloody Attic until Christmas bloody Eve!
 
Wat_Tyler said:
The Old Guy in Vermont told me to seal the foundation tight as Dick's hatband. I quizzed him about this. He said, hot air rises. To kill a fire, you kill its draft. After reflection, it made Perfect Sense.
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I haven't figured out how to seal one part of the lower level. The side wall of the garage to the house on that floor has a false ceiling. To rip that out and insulate that wall would cost a fortune. Most of the time my car says its 55 or 60 in winter. 45 if we get a week it stays freezing. So there is bad air moving through there. At the end of that hall is the washer and dryer. Then behind them is a small attic, half in and half out of the house. It is brick on the front side. Beyond that is outside and a small shed like space the size of the slab outside the front door that covers it. So the bricks I am not sure how to seal or insulate. The small path to those is where the HVAC and hot water is. On that hall is a bathroom. If I could figure out how to fund those projects not knowing fully how to do them myself I would.
In my Jersey life I rented a place that was drafty. Got home from work late and had to hovel the driveway in the dark so I could get the car in the garage. I learned a lot that day. I parked my car to the side of the street and drove up on the snow plow pile. hahaha My neighbor was Chief of Police and showed me how to get it loose. Was a fun country come to town moment. However, while shoveling I could see that I left the light in the basement on all the way along the seam of the basement wall and where the house started. I used expanding foam all the way around. Even the air conditioning worked after that.
In the other old homes I lived in there wasn't much a way to seal that level. One as we were leaving we had the battleship gray slats and the joists below them replaced. The guy showed me the hole where the mice got in. We also found beer bottles from the 50's. Estimated a few good friends home from Korea put a new porch on for Mom or a neighbor. It didn't matter if you sealed that house. I only AC'd a bedroom and the heat was oil with this old dragon from when they invented oil heat. You could crack a window in mid winter. You had to crack a window if you had a fire in the fireplace.
 
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Wonderer67 said:
Feel free to come around whenever. It’s a great crew and a lot like the bar cheers.

Just folk breaking balls, sharing their days etc.

We just don’t talk about politics, religion or bring any drama to the place.

Where you from?

I’m from NJ.
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Yep. I think of it much like Pat's Pub on the corner. I got home after closing at 9. Walk to blocks to the bar. "Country", like when Norm walked in at Cheers. The guy in the kitchen always saved some of what he had for lunch because he knew I would appreciate it. Depending on the jealousy when served is how he added and removed things from the menu. Like here, I can't go long without coming for a read. Its a good bar.
 
subdudeme13 said:
Is there a 5am club?
It is 36 degrees. Record low temperature for Tampa area.
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I'm in Virginia. Lots and lots of acorns this year. And this cold was not gradual. All at once and with significant wind.
the cold part of the year started with a jolt. Last year I was away to NC for Thanksgiving before it froze the first time.
I still need to bus my hoses. All three are attached and under full pressure. We should hit 70 one of these days I will do it in the sun.
 
PersonalFavors said:
I haven't figured out how to seal one part of the lower level.
Click to expand...
Disclaimer: I don't know :poop: about construction. So you be the judge of the resources found.

Here's an AI Overview and a few sites to start the research. 🤞 you find an affordable solution!

AI Overview:
To improve energy efficiency, seal exterior brick walls by both air sealing and adding insulation. First, thoroughly clean and repair the brick, then apply a penetrating masonry sealer to prevent water damage. Next, focus on air sealing by caulking gaps around windows and foundations, and installing foam gaskets behind outlets. For major insulation, consider exterior insulation boards under a new facade or internal insulation boards, but for a full brick wall with no exterior alteration, the primary method is to seal and insulate from the inside.

Before you begin
  • Clean and repair: Sweep the wall to remove loose debris. Wash it with a sponge and soapy water, then let it dry completely overnight. Repair any cracks or missing mortar.
  • Check for a proper drainage plane: A well-maintained brick wall should allow moisture to escape naturally. A penetrating sealer can help, but be sure you're not trying to seal a wall that's already experiencing moisture issues from the inside.

Step 1: Seal with a penetrating masonry sealer
  1. Choose the right product: Use a penetrating silicone or siloxane-based sealer, as these are designed to block water while allowing water vapor to escape.
    • Apply the product: A temperature of at least
      50∘F50 raised to the composed with power cap F
      is ideal for application. Use a garden sprayer or brush to apply the sealer, starting at the top of the wall and working your way down. Flood the surface to ensure even coverage, allowing for an 8–12 inch run-down.
    • Work in sections: Work in small sections to keep the sealer from drying too quickly before you can apply the next section.
Step 2: Air sealing (from the inside)
  1. Locate leaks: Feel for drafts on a windy day or use a professional blower-door test to find air leaks.
  2. Seal gaps: Use caulk to seal gaps around windows and doors. Also, seal any gaps around plumbing, electrical wiring, and vents where they pass through walls.
  3. Add gaskets: Install foam gaskets behind electrical outlets and switches on exterior walls.
Step 3: Insulate (from the inside)
  1. Internal insulation boards: Install rigid foam insulation boards directly onto the interior of the brick wall, followed by a new layer of drywall.
  2. Adjustments: Be aware that this will require adjusting window and door trim to accommodate the new wall thickness.
Consider professional help
  • Home energy assessment: Consider having a professional conduct a home energy assessment to identify all air leaks and insulation opportunities.
  • Exterior insulation: For a more involved project, you could consider installing exterior insulation with a new render or cladding, which is best done with the help of a professional.
Resource Sites:
Energy.gov: Air Sealing Your Home

How to Insulate a Single Brick Wall? - scroll down past the ads. Note: This is a UK site

Our Old House: Facebook post - Brian Hill's response

Ask at your local library - mine has a "Power Check Meter" and a "Draft Check" device. Both can be requested and used at your home. They were supplied by a local utility company. Unsure if they're a replacement for a professional assessment but could help determine if a professional is needed??
 
For masonry walls, rigid foam insulation is good. Spray foam insulation works, too - the professionally applied kind, not the cans from the box stores. Closed cell is better but it's flammable, so it's no bueno unless it's enclosed. Open cell is pretty good, however, and it can be exposed.


Consult the intrawebz for further information in case I screwed something up there.
 
likes2watchU said:
Disclaimer: I don't know :poop: about construction. So you be the judge of the resources found.

Here's an AI Overview and a few sites to start the research. 🤞 you find an affordable solution!

AI Overview:
To improve energy efficiency, seal exterior brick walls by both air sealing and adding insulation. First, thoroughly clean and repair the brick, then apply a penetrating masonry sealer to prevent water damage. Next, focus on air sealing by caulking gaps around windows and foundations, and installing foam gaskets behind outlets. For major insulation, consider exterior insulation boards under a new facade or internal insulation boards, but for a full brick wall with no exterior alteration, the primary method is to seal and insulate from the inside.

Before you begin
  • Clean and repair: Sweep the wall to remove loose debris. Wash it with a sponge and soapy water, then let it dry completely overnight. Repair any cracks or missing mortar.
  • Check for a proper drainage plane: A well-maintained brick wall should allow moisture to escape naturally. A penetrating sealer can help, but be sure you're not trying to seal a wall that's already experiencing moisture issues from the inside.

Step 1: Seal with a penetrating masonry sealer
  1. Choose the right product: Use a penetrating silicone or siloxane-based sealer, as these are designed to block water while allowing water vapor to escape.
    • Apply the product: A temperature of at least
      50∘F50 raised to the composed with power cap F
      is ideal for application. Use a garden sprayer or brush to apply the sealer, starting at the top of the wall and working your way down. Flood the surface to ensure even coverage, allowing for an 8–12 inch run-down.
    • Work in sections: Work in small sections to keep the sealer from drying too quickly before you can apply the next section.
Step 2: Air sealing (from the inside)
  1. Locate leaks: Feel for drafts on a windy day or use a professional blower-door test to find air leaks.
  2. Seal gaps: Use caulk to seal gaps around windows and doors. Also, seal any gaps around plumbing, electrical wiring, and vents where they pass through walls.
  3. Add gaskets: Install foam gaskets behind electrical outlets and switches on exterior walls.
Step 3: Insulate (from the inside)
  1. Internal insulation boards: Install rigid foam insulation boards directly onto the interior of the brick wall, followed by a new layer of drywall.
  2. Adjustments: Be aware that this will require adjusting window and door trim to accommodate the new wall thickness.
Consider professional help
  • Home energy assessment: Consider having a professional conduct a home energy assessment to identify all air leaks and insulation opportunities.
  • Exterior insulation: For a more involved project, you could consider installing exterior insulation with a new render or cladding, which is best done with the help of a professional.
Resource Sites:
Energy.gov: Air Sealing Your Home

How to Insulate a Single Brick Wall? - scroll down past the ads. Note: This is a UK site

Our Old House: Facebook post - Brian Hill's response

Ask at your local library - mine has a "Power Check Meter" and a "Draft Check" device. Both can be requested and used at your home. They were supplied by a local utility company. Unsure if they're a replacement for a professional assessment but could help determine if a professional is needed??
Click to expand...
I would consider doing that brick wall if the wall separating the garage made sense. I can't afford to tear it out and make the interior drywall extend to the ceiling. Too much to move including gas lines. I didn't seal then insulate the bricks on the front end because I would have to move all that stuff I continue to lug along with me. Some of the boxes haven't been opened for 2 or three moves. I know what is in them and don't have use or space for it. Some are just toys from when I was a kid. What I can reach in that room is cable, wire, extra screws.... You know all that stuff your father and grandfather had easily accessible because nothing was not built to last or be replaced.
 
Lilianna23 said:
Thanks, B2! We do get some interesting weather at times. Unlike many, I don't seem to be affected by SAD. I kind of like the rain and gloom. It's a good excuse to cuddle on the couch with the pup, napping and reading. 🥰
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I don't think I used to be bothered by it, I always liked rainy days.

I'm starting to think the allergens overwhelmed the SAD. Wet rainy days means no allergens in the air, so those were the good days. However, I'm starting to feel it this year.

Today was a particularly long day. Snow for a few days. Dark, cold, and wet all day today. I couldn't even tell what time of day it was at any time during the day.

The good news is we only have 6 more months of this!
 
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