the "ask crazychemgirl a question" thread

OMG go swimming this weekend!
And thanks for your answer. I dig your style.

My curiosity about words that have meaning beyond their literal or understood meaning was piqued by a story in a comic series from back in the day called Global Frequency. The issues were "bottle episodes" and one dealt with a woman who was a linguistics pro resisting the influence of a written passage that appeared to be benign language, but was in fact a virus for the human mind. Viruses were explained as simply commands for a computer that the owner doesn't want to run. And reading this passage gave commands to the reader's brain that bypassed awareness and will. Unless like this woman you were among the best in the world at understanding and resisting the technique. Cool shit.
 
Very few are actually invited. Most invite themselves.

Recycling for a sustainable and resilient future!

Don't sell yourself short.

Awww 🥰

Really? Do tell. Wat recycles all manner of disposables.


Okay, so is using a full synthetic motor (engine) oil in an antique engine a bad idea?


My theory has always been, slipperier is better, and there's the duration factor, too. I used to be concerned about the zinc content regarding camshaft wear, but old engines don't have the kind of valve lift the generate really high valve spring pressures. When the anvil engine was broken in (500 miles on a rebuild), I drained the Gawd Knows What and replaced it with Mobil 1 5w30. Again, my theory is that light oil will begin to circulate before the heavy sludgy higher viscosity oils will.


Thoughts?

I am so not an expert on oils … I’m just a chemist, not a car person. We recycle oil and blend semi-synthetic oils and I check the zinc levels … I think semi-synthetic is fine.

OMG go swimming this weekend!
And thanks for your answer. I dig your style.

My curiosity about words that have meaning beyond their literal or understood meaning was piqued by a story in a comic series from back in the day called Global Frequency. The issues were "bottle episodes" and one dealt with a woman who was a linguistics pro resisting the influence of a written passage that appeared to be benign language, but was in fact a virus for the human mind. Viruses were explained as simply commands for a computer that the owner doesn't want to run. And reading this passage gave commands to the reader's brain that bypassed awareness and will. Unless like this woman you were among the best in the world at understanding and resisting the technique. Cool shit.
Oh interesting… I mean in theory an AI could be hacked by “reading a virus” … but I’m super wary of AI technology in general.. not just cuz I’m a massive sci-fi movie fan but also for moral and ethical reasons.
 
I am so not an expert on oils … I’m just a chemist, not a car person. We recycle oil and blend semi-synthetic oils and I check the zinc levels … I think semi-synthetic is fine.


Yeah, and neither are most of the bozos posting about it on the anvil site. You do have one thing that some of them lack: humility.


Actually, the stuff I'm using is full synthetic. Once again, Slippery. Somehow, this seems to be a good idea. Does that make any difference to you and your thought?


The old coots also talk about not using synthetics in the overdrive units because it's too slippery. Somehow, this makes no sense to me whatever. I haven't put an overdrive car on the road yet. Yet.


Thoughts?
 
Really? Do tell. Wat recycles all manner of disposables.


Okay, so is using a full synthetic motor (engine) oil in an antique engine a bad idea?


My theory has always been, slipperier is better, and there's the duration factor, too. I used to be concerned about the zinc content regarding camshaft wear, but old engines don't have the kind of valve lift the generate really high valve spring pressures. When the anvil engine was broken in (500 miles on a rebuild), I drained the Gawd Knows What and replaced it with Mobil 1 5w30. Again, my theory is that light oil will begin to circulate before the heavy sludgy higher viscosity oils will.


Thoughts?
I notice ccj answered, but I figured I'd throw in my two cents. Go with the full synthetic. Just make sure the oil you pick is the same weight(s) as what SAE called out for when the motor was produced.

Synthetic oils are superior in all aspects to conventional oil, the oil molecule are more uniform in shape and fewer impurities. Just make sure if the motor needed SAE 30 for example back in the day, you pick either a 5w30 or 10w30 in synthetic. ( If your in a colder winter climate you want the 5, if your more temperate in the winter then 10 is a better choice).
 
Yeah, and neither are most of the bozos posting about it on the anvil site. You do have one thing that some of them lack: humility.


Actually, the stuff I'm using is full synthetic. Once again, Slippery. Somehow, this seems to be a good idea. Does that make any difference to you and your thought?


The old coots also talk about not using synthetics in the overdrive units because it's too slippery. Somehow, this makes no sense to me whatever. I haven't put an overdrive car on the road yet. Yet.


Thoughts?

I genuinely have no thoughts… it’s my Friday and I’m certified brain dead today lol

I notice ccj answered, but I figured I'd throw in my two cents. Go with the full synthetic. Just make sure the oil you pick is the same weight(s) as what SAE called out for when the motor was produced.

Synthetic oils are superior in all aspects to conventional oil, the oil molecule are more uniform in shape and fewer impurities. Just make sure if the motor needed SAE 30 for example back in the day, you pick either a 5w30 or 10w30 in synthetic. ( If your in a colder winter climate you want the 5, if your more temperate in the winter then 10 is a better choice).
See? Someone who gives AF about oils … though I do like to point out that I did read that the regulations and whatnot on oil isn’t exactly defined so you could be buying something it says it is when it’s not.
Like “organic” and “gmo-free” … buzz words that make my skin crawl
 
I use dinosaur oil in “regular” motors because i change motor oil every 5,000km ( 3,000 miles)

Exceptions are the more complex ones like benzes, bmw’s and small displacement turbo’s like my cooper S supercharged…. Full synth, usually mobil1.

For diffs i generally use synth or blends.
 
I use dinosaur oil in “regular” motors because i change motor oil every 5,000km ( 3,000 miles)

Exceptions are the more complex ones like benzes, bmw’s and small displacement turbo’s like my cooper S supercharged…. Full synth, usually mobil1.

For diffs i generally use synth or blends.
That makes logical sense… I use reg oil in my Jeep … cuz yeah.. it doesn’t require “fancy” oil that’s only gonna get tossed every 6 months lol
 
That makes logical sense… I use reg oil in my Jeep … cuz yeah.. it doesn’t require “fancy” oil that’s only gonna get tossed every 6 months lol

Oil is a topic men can argue about ad nauseum.

Clean cheap oil is better than half dirty expensive oil.
 
I genuinely have no thoughts… it’s my Friday and I’m certified brain dead today lol
You're only brain dead on Friday's....I am most days. What's your secret??
See? Someone who gives AF about oils … though I do like to point out that I did read that the regulations and whatnot on oil isn’t exactly defined so you could be buying something it says it is when it’s not.
100% correct, but you can check the oil label, and see what certifications they meet, for what they are. IE Full Syn, Blended Syn, High Mileage, and regular Oil. I am not a AE, but I am an Engineer, so that education kind of helps digging through the weeds about other Engineering fields.

My thoughts on it are, if they call it Synthetic, and you check the label to see the SAE markings, you at least know it is Synthetic, and meets the SAE Standard.

Back to Wat's motor, as I said I'd go with Full Syn. If he notices the ole blue smoke while driving, then he might be better off going with "high millage" oil. HM is designed for older engines, and I think, but don't quote me, there are also Synthetic blends of it.

The nice thing about a Full Synthetic oil, is it is manufactured,unlike dino oil,which is made by boiling raw crude oil a few times , and then a bunch of additives are mixed in ( cheeky answer for the actual process). Where Synthetics are not always even made from crude or recycled oil. Natural gas based Synthetics offer up a much superior product, but that comes with a much higher price....
Like “organic” and “gmo-free” … buzz words that make my skin crawl
Not too common to find around Oils, but anyway to make a buck...
 
I use dinosaur oil in “regular” motors because i change motor oil every 5,000km ( 3,000 miles)

Exceptions are the more complex ones like benzes, bmw’s and small displacement turbo’s like my cooper S supercharged…. Full synth, usually mobil1.

For diffs i generally use synth or blends.
On my F-150, I do oil changes at about 16,000 k, based upon my oil monitor. I have always used full synthetic. Not burning a drop. Well over 400k on this one now.
 
Hmmmm … depends on how it’s made and seasoned.
Assuming standard soup-making procedure.

pre-cooked bird

Boil carcass and meat with salt, pepper, and bay leaves

Additions of wide egg noodles, carrots, celery. Shred leftover primarily white meat.
 
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