CuriousJInLA
Adventurer
- Joined
- Oct 22, 2023
- Posts
- 1,059
Barbarian Days - William Finnegan
As someone who loves and appreciates those who live truly adventurous lives, Finnegan’s book about his life very well lived while surfing the world was a great autobiography gone tediously long and overdetailed. Word after word, sentence after sentence, paragraph after paragraph, chapter after chapter he drones on about air temperature, water temperature, wind, water color, each wave in a set, how he paddled to catch every wave and what he was thinking, minutiae that he would remember and embrace, but I went from enjoying to hating the amount of detail I was forced to read.
It would make a great gift for a soul-searching surfer though
As someone who loves and appreciates those who live truly adventurous lives, Finnegan’s book about his life very well lived while surfing the world was a great autobiography gone tediously long and overdetailed. Word after word, sentence after sentence, paragraph after paragraph, chapter after chapter he drones on about air temperature, water temperature, wind, water color, each wave in a set, how he paddled to catch every wave and what he was thinking, minutiae that he would remember and embrace, but I went from enjoying to hating the amount of detail I was forced to read.
It would make a great gift for a soul-searching surfer though