Well Jaded it looks like GMC has done it again.
I have high mileage of 25,000 miles on the chevy pickup truck and already the front Anti lock disk brake pads need to be replaced, The brake peddal has a pulse to it when I lightly put on the brakes but there is no rotor marks on the front end wheels, something tells me that the Factory OEM pads were asbestos, I will put ceramic pads back in it this time.
With anti lock brakes do I push the caliper back in with the master cylinder caps off and push the fluid back into the master cylinder or do I open the brake bleeder screws while pushing the caliper back in?
*Ponders.*
Shagly,
Not sure whats going on with your brakes but you got a problem somewhere.
First of all you cannot by Asbestos and as of now I have 56,000 on my GMC without needing brakes yet. A pulse in the pedal would usually translate to a warped rotor. Poor service mileage also translates to a possible hung up caliper. With 25000 miles your well within the bumper to bumper warranty so get it over to the dealer. Best pads you can put back in will be the delco that came out of it.
Example. I had a 91 Chevrolet K1500 . Put about 65 to 70k on those front brakes bfore needing pads. Put the "top of the line" NAPA (Bendix) pads in the truck... Replaced those about 39,000 miles later.
Put the GM pads in and went another 70,000 miles before they wore down.
The GM brake set had ALL new O ring seals and boots for my Caliper bolts with the grease for them. The NAPA ones didn't give me anything.
The GM pads had the fiber "anti-chatter" liner on the back of the pad just like the originals did.
NAPA pads didn't ... But recomended using some goop to make the quiet.
I've always bought brake pads over the counter at my local auto jobber but after that experience I stopped. I will pay more at the dealer to buy the original pads BUT , I have a friend who gets a discount AND I get twice the life and a far superior pad that was designed for the truck.
I also break in those new brakes so I don't warp a new rotor.
I NEVER just replace pads without at least turning the rotors and if I buy them I do not buy the ones made in china
Again I will pay top dollar for the rotors and on my truck its 70.00 a rotor!
The labor is my own so I know the job is done correctly .
I also have brakes that I can trust to last and work properly.
Bleeding...
YES ... OPEN the bleeders to compress the piston with ABS brakes.
I make sure I use a clean hose on my bleeder to capture the fluid. I put a small amount in the bottle to be sure I do not let air back in. Do it slowly for best results.
Again let me just say that 25,000 miles is not normal! unless you drive with one foot on the brakes all the time.
Good luck and please keep us posted on what the problem turns out to be.


